Furnace Repair in Mooresville, NC
Furnaces here run from October through April. If yours quits, tell us what it's doing and a licensed contractor who covers Iredell County will get in touch.
Tell us about the job
It takes about a minute.
Seven months of work, and the power going out on top of it
Your furnace runs from October through April here in Mooresville, seven months out of the year. On winter nights that average 30°F, the burner is cycling on and off to keep up. Every one of those starts puts wear on the igniter and the parts that get the burner lit, and over a winter that adds up.
Iredell County has seen 9 winter storms and 105 damaging wind events over the past ten years, and across North Carolina a quarter of households went at least 24 hours without power in 2024. Most furnaces come back on by themselves once power is restored. If yours doesn't, or it wasn't heating right before the outage, that's worth a look.
- 7 months
- October through April, your furnace is on duty
- 30°F
- the average winter night it heats against
- 9 winter storms
- in ten years, the nights a failure hurts most
NOAA nClimDiv, 1991–2020 normals
North Carolina requires HVAC contractors to hold a state license.
The license comes from the State Board of Examiners of Plumbing, Heating and Fire Sprinkler Contractors. To get it, a contractor has to pass the state's exam and carry the license under their name. It covers the contractor, not the job itself, so the same license applies whether they're relighting a pilot or replacing a furnace.
A furnace burns gas, and the dangerous part of a repair is a bad connection at the gas line or a cracked heat exchanger left in place. In North Carolina, that is exactly the work the state license is meant to answer for. The contractor doing the repair should be able to show you that license, and it should be current.
Sources: North Carolina General Assembly · North Carolina State Board of Examiners of Plumbing, Heating and Fire Sprinkler Contractors
- Why won't my furnace turn on?
- Most often the thermostat isn't calling for heat the way you think it is, or power isn't reaching the furnace. Check that the thermostat is set to heat and the temperature is above room temperature, and check the breaker for the furnace along with any switch that looks like a light switch near the unit. If those are fine, the igniter may have failed, or a safety switch has shut the furnace down because of an airflow or venting problem. A contractor can test the igniter, the flame sensor, and the safety switches to find which one is stopping the furnace from starting.
- Why is my furnace blowing cold air?
- If air is moving but it's cold, the burners likely aren't lighting even though the blower is running. A dirty flame sensor is a common cause. It reads the flame to confirm it's burning, and once it's coated with residue it can't sense the flame and shuts the gas off, even though the blower keeps pushing air through the vents. It can also mean the igniter is failing, or the furnace is stuck in a safety shutdown after lighting briefly. A contractor can test the flame sensor and igniter to find which one is at fault.
- Why won't my furnace pilot light stay lit?
- This usually means the thermocouple has failed or the pilot orifice is partly blocked. The thermocouple sits in the pilot flame and tells the gas valve the flame is lit. Once it wears out or sits out of position, the valve shuts the gas off within seconds of the pilot lighting, since it can no longer confirm the flame is there. A draft blowing across the pilot or a dirty orifice can also put it out. A contractor can test the thermocouple and check the pilot assembly to find the cause.